20.7.08
Steamed Mussels vs. Sore Joints
Bantry to Glengarriff was a nice 11 kilometer jaunt and the village welcomed us with beer battered cod and chips and the our first glimpse into the Irish tourism trade-- a plenty with wool and sundry Guiness nic-nacs. It was here in Glengarriff where we literally flipped a coin at the fork in the road, and found ourselves on the route into the great Beara Penninsula. This would end in a 60 k day ride and into the generous arms of a truly brilliant mad man by the name of Chris Doyle. This is the infamous director of photography behind such films as Rabbit proof Fence, Chungking Express, and Gus Van Sant's remake of Psycho. We found him, or rather, he found us, in the village of Castletownbere where he was making a film with Neil Jordan, starring Collin Ferrel who we saw the following day, but that's another story. . . Anyway, Chris offered us a place to stay for the night and provided a lot of craic! Needless to say many pints were enjoyed while we met the hardworking crew that had taken over this once quiet fishing village.
We left the overly friendly Castletownbere with a little reluctance, but once on the road again the beauty of this unspoiled land rekindled our adventurous spirits. We rode that day around Dursey Head, and started on our way back, staying in the tiny sweet village of Allihies for the evening in a comfy hostel. The next day we rode the most strenuous part of our trip so far, realizing the night before just how much land we want to cover, and the days we've spent already. We followed the coastal route up narrow roads through thick verdant hills--sheep wandering into our path. We were cursing under our breaths with every turn of the crank, (Alexander's crank in fact has given up to the forces, and must be tightened daily now). Finally, with the help of Our Lady, we coasted gently into Kenmare--a town bustling with the frenzy of tour busses and Irish-themed gift shops galore. We opted for a B&B which offered quite amazingly, a bathtub, and it was pure salvation for our sore muscles and tired bones.
Kenmare to Kilarney we took a longer route around the Peakeen mountain range, but avoiding any strenuous climbs. This was notably the most uninteresting ride so far. Kilarney was like Kenmare on steroids, and we quickly locked up our bicycles and took to the sidewalks--dodging shopping bags and accidentally walking into many a group photo. We looked around for lodging, though it seemed like the whole town was booked. On our third hostel inquiry, we settled for a 8-bed dormitory which did nothing for our desire of a restful sleep. The hostel layout resembled that of a submarine with very tight quarters, and a narrow but cavernous feel. Alexander tried his first mushy peas that evening with our usual meal of fish and chips, washed with a pint of the plain. This time, the sweet Irish ballads of the pub clashed with a throbbing bass of the discotec next door, oh what a craic!
We were most happy to leave Kilarney, stopping on our way out for a new crank bolt, and a bag of sweets. Bullseyes, Cloves, and Lime Lemon Acids to keep our mouths entertained in the ride ahead to Dingle. So here we are in Dingle, Sunday afternoon, 13:49, our tent pitched yesterday evening at a hostel up the street. Last night we enjoyed quite bluntly, an orgasmic platter of Dingle Bay steamed mussels, dinner followed by a pint at the most unique pub thus far--a hardware-bicycle shop-pub. Tools hanging from the ceiling and shelves stuffed to the brim with nuts and bolts, valves and clamps--truly surreal. We chatted with some local boys and now have in our Gaelic vocabulary a few more words which we are excited but a bit ambivalent to use.
Tomorrow we leave Dingle, heading back inland from the peninsula via Connor's pass--a steep and daunting yet reportedly stunning vista. On the other side in Camp, we'll visit the pub where Susan's parents had their wedding reception, and the church in which they were married. But for now, we have a lunch in the pannier and hope to picnic on Slea Head after we pay for this bloody internet bill. The weather is tempermental but we persevere, and when the sun rays do pass through, the glorious greens are truly revealed. Much Love, Susan & Alexander
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8 comments:
We looked at your beautiful photos, and the place-names --- Castletownbeare, Slea Head, Dingle, Connor's Pass --- took us back some 35 yrs. Glad your bones and muscles (but not your steamed mussels!) got a warm soak! Today I am 60. We went up for a walk under the waterfall at Silver Falls yesterday, bought some freshly picked blueberries, and cooked a celebratory meal for the 2 of us last night. We are decadent! ENJOY! ENJOY! ENJOY!
Owen and Cathy
hey guys, I am so happy for you both. what an adventure. I really enjoyed reading and seeing what you are doing. I can't wait to see more. have fun and be safe! from big bro. and fam.
Hi Alexander and Susan
We passed the Cliffs without stopping. We will return in a few days and take a closer look at the burren as well. We saw Knowth, Newgrange and most stunning: Loughcrew near Oldcastle. Its worth a long stop!! There is a luxury budget hostel near Navan in the Old Road, Athlumney. We enjoyed its comfort for a change... Take care
Hello you two,
Wow! What a wonderful adventure you are both having. You have acquired some very interesting stories and seen some amazing places. It seems that your trip is very surreal and will give you great memories for a lifetime. Those sore joints are probably worth the steamed mussels and other great experiences. Dad is here helping us on a few things around the house. He says hello and sends his love. We look forward to seeing you guys again soon and listening to more stories of your voyage. Keep up the good paddling.
Best wishes, Jayde and Chrisie (and Dad)
When you appealed to Mary, she sent you a bathtub. Remember the loving and powerful nature of Mary.
love,
Mary.
Hi kids...I am loving this adventure you are having. So many of the places are places I visited but lots of new wonderful areas. It has taken me a few days to get back to the library so I shall update my comments ..all at one time. lots of love,
Mom Cat
Hey there,
Mom told me about your run in with this guy but couldn't remember who he was really. So I had to come on and check it out myself. That is really cool that you met the guy who helped make Rabbit Proof Fence...that was an amazing story and movie. So cool!
Anyhow, you do have the strangest luck but I'm glad it is all working out for you guys. Again, loving the pictures. I can't wait to talk to you when you get back. Lots of love...
Tawni...Beddoes & Company
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